land of lakes and volcanoes

The bells of the massive white Leon cathedral (the largest in Central America) rang out, mingling somehow with the little bells of ice-cream sellers in the central park plaza in front.  I was taking advantage of the recent introduction of free wifi in all such plazas in towns across the country - the ruling Sandanista party trying to make technology available to the masses.

The sky darkened suddenly.  Along with everyone else in the plaza I rushed towards home.  Lightning flashed around, but what with the drums of the school marching band and the bangs of fireworks going off I couldn't tell whether there was thunder.  Then big fat raindrops started to fall - just as I got to the front door.

The storm continued for three hours, until water was rushing down the streets in torrents.  The third day of rain in my three days here.  Badly needed rain for Leon where they get very little, but I rather wished it could have waited another few days until after my departure.

I took a risk on the unusual weather and booked myself on a trip to Telica Volcano, where it was apparently possible to see magma inside the crater.  Four of us hiked up the volcano with our guide, under a miraculously clear sky, but we still did not get to see any magma as the lack of wind meant that the volcanic gases were sitting in the crater blocking the view.  Still it was a lovely trip with nice views of other nearby volcanoes too.

A few days later I went to see another volcano, at Masaya.  Here I knew that no magma would be visible but again there were lovely views of the crater and the sulphurous smell of the gases.  We also went deep into a lava tube, and watched bats streaming out of a cave beside the volcano.  Nicaragua is referred to (by their tourist board, I think) as 'the land of lakes and volcanoes' and it is an accurate description although they shouldn't forget about the beautiful colonial cities of Leon and Granada.

I felt that Granada was somewhere I could seriously consider retiring when the time comes, with its stunning old colonial houses - not much to look at on the outside but with great character inside, a forest of wooden pillars surrounding wonderful courtyards, some with swimming pools and most with some of the living space (even the kitchens) effectively outdoors as they are located under the eaves but open to the central courtyard.  It is hot all year and has few mosquitoes so a semi-outdoor home would be perfect.  I had thought that Leon would appeal more with its socialist and intellectual character, rather than the more genteel, bourgeois Granada, but if I'm honest then Granada would be the easier place to live ... I can just imagine my collection of African masks hanging on the old adobe walls.