boat trips in southern Nicaragua

The ferry departed Granada at 2pm, arriving in San Carlos around 5am - a 15 hour trip across Lake Nicaragua.  On arrival, after a very nice breakfast, I transferred to a different wharf and a different boat, this time for the four-hour trip across the south of the lake and then up the Papaturro River to the Los Guatuzos Natural Reserve.

I'd been warned about the Granada - San Carlos trip, about the need for warm clothes and sea-sicknes tablets.  Fortunately we had a very smooth crossing, and my T-shirt, shirt, fleece and down jacket together were enough to keep me warm, but sleeping in a deck chair is only easy for the first hour or so.  I was thus very envious of the locals on the trip to Los Guatuzos who came prepared with hammocks to string up across the boat.  The rest of us shuffled and wriggled about on the hard wooden benches as our bodies stiffened and our bottoms became numb.

So what did I do on my first evening at Los Guatuzos?  A three-hour boat trip...

This one was different, however, as the excellent guide pointed out various birds sleeping on their perches (including five different species of kingfisher), a large group of baby caymans (maybe two or three days old), adult caymans, a gorgeous red-eyed tree frog and a black and tan coloured rat-like creature.  For the first hour or so the river was also covered in a stream of thousands of bats flying over its surface, hunting the millions of insects that came out as the sun went down.

The next morning I took yet another boat trip - back in the same direction but with different things to see and more stops to get out and walk.  We saw dozens more kingfishers, trogons, sloths, caymans, and a few new birds to add to my list.  The guide also had me wading through a swamp, and climbing a tree, then swinging on two "Tarzan" hanging roots he had fashioned into a swing - determined to get me out of my comfort zone, although in their own way the mosquitoes were already doing that.

We were out for six hours, and the highlight for me was a little thumbnail-sized poisonous orange and blue tree frog.

It was also interesting though to walk through a local homestead, seeing how the local people live in this remote place.  They kept chickens and pigs, and grew rice, cassava, maize, avocadoes, beans, carambolas, lemons, cocoa and coffee - yes, I was told, they made their own coffee from the beans on their trees.  Amazingly they also had a tobacco tree, from where they dried the leaves and rolled their own cigars!  I guess they would be classed as poor, as they earn very little money, but they produce virtually everything they need - the only foodstuff they needed to buy being sugar and salt.

In the afternoon I went for a walk, following the only road out of the village as far as the next little community (which was as far as the road went).  Only people on foot, bicycle and horseback use the road, as there are no roads into the area on which to bring in cars.  Instead I was surrounded by howler monkeys and birds, such as this beautiful bare-throated tiger heron.

The guide's wife told me that this idyllic place is set to disappear underwater, as the proposed new canal will cause the level of the lake (and thus surrounding swamps such as Los Guatuzos) to rise by a metre.  I very much hope she is wrong.

land of lakes and volcanoes

The bells of the massive white Leon cathedral (the largest in Central America) rang out, mingling somehow with the little bells of ice-cream sellers in the central park plaza in front.  I was taking advantage of the recent introduction of free wifi in all such plazas in towns across the country - the ruling Sandanista party trying to make technology available to the masses.

The sky darkened suddenly.  Along with everyone else in the plaza I rushed towards home.  Lightning flashed around, but what with the drums of the school marching band and the bangs of fireworks going off I couldn't tell whether there was thunder.  Then big fat raindrops started to fall - just as I got to the front door.

The storm continued for three hours, until water was rushing down the streets in torrents.  The third day of rain in my three days here.  Badly needed rain for Leon where they get very little, but I rather wished it could have waited another few days until after my departure.

I took a risk on the unusual weather and booked myself on a trip to Telica Volcano, where it was apparently possible to see magma inside the crater.  Four of us hiked up the volcano with our guide, under a miraculously clear sky, but we still did not get to see any magma as the lack of wind meant that the volcanic gases were sitting in the crater blocking the view.  Still it was a lovely trip with nice views of other nearby volcanoes too.

A few days later I went to see another volcano, at Masaya.  Here I knew that no magma would be visible but again there were lovely views of the crater and the sulphurous smell of the gases.  We also went deep into a lava tube, and watched bats streaming out of a cave beside the volcano.  Nicaragua is referred to (by their tourist board, I think) as 'the land of lakes and volcanoes' and it is an accurate description although they shouldn't forget about the beautiful colonial cities of Leon and Granada.

I felt that Granada was somewhere I could seriously consider retiring when the time comes, with its stunning old colonial houses - not much to look at on the outside but with great character inside, a forest of wooden pillars surrounding wonderful courtyards, some with swimming pools and most with some of the living space (even the kitchens) effectively outdoors as they are located under the eaves but open to the central courtyard.  It is hot all year and has few mosquitoes so a semi-outdoor home would be perfect.  I had thought that Leon would appeal more with its socialist and intellectual character, rather than the more genteel, bourgeois Granada, but if I'm honest then Granada would be the easier place to live ... I can just imagine my collection of African masks hanging on the old adobe walls.